![4l60e shift kit installation 4l60e shift kit installation](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/TCcHTzqN7pA/hqdefault.jpg)
This is the one that's referred to as having a 'cage' around it. I see another checkball in the case, near where the filter outlet is - but it's held in place - I can move it about a little bit and not worry about it falling out of the case. The spring will be discarded Transgo has included a replacement for me. Two things I couldn't control when I took out the separator plate were the spring & piston pin for the 4th accumulator - they fall to the floor, but I locate them without effort and put them into the parts box. No matter, because I've got a new Transgo plate and Torlon checkballs to replace the steel ones, when I reassemble. Drop the separator plate level, and it will be waiting on top for you.Ĭheck the plate for wear, especially for the 1-2 checkball (I forget the 'official' name for it, and I'm not going to look it up now - but it's the one that creates the most wear, being pounded into the plate on every 1-2 shift. This time the 8mm fits perfectly, 3 bolts are out, and.careful now.there's another checkball that's going to come out. What the hell size are these? Some more research tells me they're 8mm.
![4l60e shift kit installation 4l60e shift kit installation](https://i.imgur.com/IluizP3.jpg)
There is a hold down, or 'stiffening' plate that you must unbolt to get the separator plate / gaskets off. Off the accumulator housing goes to the parts box, as the separator plate & gaskets are next. So be careful.ġ-2 accumulator is next, and while I haven't removed the plastic piston from the housing yet, I can see the outer surface looks intact (no cracking, excessive bore wear), and moves freely - hey - a bunch of fluid squirted out of that hole in the housing! I hold the housing over the drain pan and work the piston back and forth while angling the accumulator housing to get as much fluid out as I can. That will allow you to keep the harness out of the way without too much strain on the two wires connected to the TCC solenoid (break them, and you'll be dropping the trans to put in a new wiring harness (which goes in / comes out from the top side of the case). Put the TCC solenoid back in the bore and loosely put the bracket back on. Set this on a shop towel, then give the pan a cursory cleaning and put the towel and VB in the pan for now. Yes, the shift detent roller comes off first - get your 13mm socket back out for the bolt. Yay me (and thanks to good directions from the GMTNation members who've been through this before). Got it off straight and level, and all checkballs remain in place. The back end of the harness can rest on the crosspipe I didn't take down, and after carefully removing enough bolts to drop the VB body down about an inch (with attendant additional fluid drain), I can get the bracket holding the TCC solenoid off, and gently pull out the solenoid - with that, the harness is out of the way, and I can finish removing the valve body. I unplug the harness, and I can see the TCC PWM solenoid is in the way of the TCC solenoid coming down (which is permanently affixed to the harness). Now I can look at the pan underside, filter, etc - not looking terrible after I got those off, and the fluid was in like-new shape since I purchased the vehicle almost a year ago. Pan came off without too much twisting / turning, even with the exhaust crosspipe in the way.
![4l60e shift kit installation 4l60e shift kit installation](https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/SUP-K4L60E.jpg)
On reinstall, some anti-seize looks like it will be in order here. I'll use the easy-out like I did with the drain bolt (which was much bigger). Ok, got all but one out cleanly - snapped the head off the last one. Noticed that some of them were very hard to get out - was someone in here earlier? Did they overtighten or cross-thread them? Nope - it turns out that with age, heat, and time, the aluminum case apparently causes a chemical reaction with the pan bolts where they more or less fuse themselves to the case. A new drain bolt will be in order - or maybe the Dorman pan, since it drains more of the fluid out anyway. I got the thing out, finally, with the easy-out. Word of warning - for those with a drain bolt, apparently it's a notorious fact that the drain bolt is overtightened at the factory - and you'll likely round off the head of the 15mm bolt trying to get it off it's recessed as well. Before I start cleaning, replacing parts and reinstalling, I figured I'd break out the easy-out kit again and take care of the broken bolt. got the drain bolt out (with an easy-out), got the pan bolts out (broke one off in the back corner, by the shift linkage - about the worst place), pan off (didn't need to drop the exhaust / crosspipe), VB and separator plate out, and down to the case. I'm about midway through my shift kit install.